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Vivienne Westwood gave this look an edge with her Pirate Collection in 1981 (Fig

The word used most by commentators at fashion shows was 'soft.'...Almost all the designers picked up the new loose and flowing silhouette....Several designers...were taking out shoulder padding, letting the [jacket] waist out, and...letting the suit settle over the contours of the body without imposing a preselected silhouette

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